BRUSH & BRAMBLES SPECIALTY [Blue Hawk Hybrid Blade]:

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Home of the One, the Only, the Finest:    RENEGADE BLADE ®

Offering: Carbide Brush Cutter Blades for our: Home Owner Customers. 


For Larger Quantity Packs and GS1 Shelf Cardboard packs specifically for Stores and Businesses Owners please see us at our Business Owner website please…

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Carbide Brush Cutter Blades



(1)—UNIVERSAL FIT — each of our blades will fit either 25.4mm Arbor (same as 1”) or a 20mm Arbor with included “reducer washer” with YOUR “Blade Hardware”. (2) IMPORTANT | BLADE HARDWARE: A Blade will {not} fit onto the Trimmer Axel Shaft by itself like the String Line Dispenser Spool will, so you must acquire “Blade Hardware” (mounting adapter kit or parts) that consists typically of two small discs; one has a raised circle on it that the blade hole (arbor) fits onto, the 2nd small disc is the cap disc, then screw on the Nut and apply a Cotter Pin. Sorry, we DO NOT supply blade hardware. (3)— CARBIDE MIX in our teeth is proprietary and 2nd to none. Just Tungsten is not enough; additives like: Hafnium, Tantalum, Titanium, Molybdenum, Silicone, Zirconium, Boron, Niobium, Chromium, & Vanadium, make for a better Carbide Mix for longer lasting teeth. (4)— ULTRA HIGH RPM: Our blade is built for any RPM even super high RPM Trimmers (10,000+ rpm). Manufactured with a more flexible steel as compared to the much more brittle steel found with table saw blades (table saw blades can shatter if they hit an obstacle, plus they are only built for approx. 3,450 rpm so they should never be used with gasoline powered Garden Trimmers. (5)— RENEGADE BLADE is the ONLY Carbide Brush Blade BRAND on eBAY that has a {REPORT} from the foremost Testing Laboratory: UL, LLC. 



Blades line up on a polarity scale with maximum TEETH on one end [for CUT] all the way to maximum CAVITIES [for GRAB] on the other end. EXAMPLE: Wood tree limbs require more teeth and no cavities, and wispy flexible brush or grass requires maximum grab as teeth alone just pushes grass over without cutting. THEREFORE: You must pick a {Teeth & Cavity Pattern} that best suits your material being cut. We offer blades to handle any: Wood, Bushes, Brambles, Hedging, Brush & Grass. 
WE offer 5 BLADESeach with its own targeted SPECIALTY based on TEETH COUNT:
(1)–RENEGADE STANDARD BLADE Silver [RSB] Multi-Use: 8″-80t, 9″-100t,10″-120t…. Has the most teeth we offer, so best for cutting solid wood based material. Hard stock type bushes, trimming tree limbs & branches and root suckers, solid wood based material is this blade’s specialty but it will also cut firm brush, but if you are cutting soft grassy wispy brush or bushes, then high teeth count blade like this one will tend to push the brush over instead of cutting it due to {not} having “grabbing cavities” between the teeth.  High teeth count blades have more teeth per square inch to help avoid seizing in dense wood tree limbs while cutting.   Additionally, this blade or the one below (red razor) are probably the best blade types for {hedging} rubbery material (fibrous vines) as low teeth count blades with big cavities tend to grab and tear instead of cutting rubbery vines (like ivy).  This blade is our chain saw replacement with respect to cutting  wood material.  Large 5.5mm teeth coupled with the most carbide teeth per blade inch that we offer makes this a dynamo in its specialty.  NOTE:  These teeth offer high durability having slightly larger thicker teeth but may have slightly {more} friction than the blade just below (Razor).
(2)–HYBRID Red RAZOR: 8″-56t, 9″-68t, 10″-80t…. a “combination specialty” Wood, plus Brush & Brambles“… This blade that is in the middle between both of our 2 RSB – STANDARD blades, but with thinner smaller 4.5mm narrower low friction teeth and rounded sharpened cavities which is the only blade we know of that has both of these unique attributes.    It really {does it all} quite well… This blade combines the characteristics of both our RSB blades just    This blade offers our smallest narrowest 4.5mm teeth for ultra low friction (low seizing)  but will power through branches up to “3-4″ thick and also hedge rubbery ivy vines with the sharpened cavities.  Truly a one of a kind blade that can handle most any job.  The teeth on this blade cut with less friction but may have a slightly less durability than our bigger teeth blades depending on what is being cut.   The Red Razor is primarily suited to Wood Cutting but also Brush & Brambles & Bushes… as compared to our green VIPER that is primarily tailored to Brush & Brambles & Bushes, but also some wood cutting, due to teeth and cavity counts of both blades.
(3)–HYBRID Green VIPER: 8″-44t, 9″-48t, 10″-52t…. a “combination specialty” Brush & Brambles, plus Wood” blade that combines our RED RAZOR’s narrow low friction teeth with our BLUE HAWK’s angled sharpened cavities all in one blade, which is the only blade we know of with these unique attributes.      This blade offers our smallest narrowest 4.5mm teeth for ultra low friction (low seizing)  but will power through branches up to “3” thick with ease, and also hedge rubbery ivy vines and any hard bushes.  This blade is slightly more tailored to Brush & Brambles but with wood cutting as well versus the Red Razor being more tailored to wood cutting but also brush & brambles as well; but both blades are good with both wood and brush.  Truly a one of a kind blade that can handle most any job.    
(4)–RENEGADE STANDARD BLADE Silver [RSB] Brush & Brambles: 8″-32t, 9″-36t, 10″-40t…. will cut thinner wood limbs, branches, and suckers about 1″-2″ diameter with ease, and hack into all types of brush and brambles (black berry bushes and such) and some harder bushes as well.  This blade “WILL GRAB” & cut flexible material as well where high tooth count blade like the first blade above just pushes and bends over bendable wispy grass material.  This blade has middle sized cavities for grabbing any flexible material, so this blade has some cross over for cutting smaller wood based material and great for most all semi firm brush and any bramble. If the brush you are cutting is more wispy & highly flexible like really tall grass you may do better with our blue Hawk {brush only} blade below, as it has our biggest {grabbing} cavities.   Larger thicker 5.5mm teeth come on this our Standard Brush & Brambles blade for extra long-lasting durability. 

(5)–HYBRID Blue HAWK: 8″-20t, 9″-20t, 10″-20t…. This blade has a unique DEEP angled CAVITY pattern that really grabs and cuts the most wispy brush such as grasses and thinner bendable brush and brambles and bushes that most blades will just push over and {NOT} grab & cut.  This blade will cut pure bendable flexible stuff better than any other blade type we offer, and will also cut up to 1″ limbs or root suckers with ease.  But this blade is “NOT” for cutting thicker wood material such as branches & limbs over 1″, as it has limited teeth so it will seize (get stuck) in a thick wood tree limb.  The HAWK Has our largest  6.5mm reinforced backed teeth.  Our 8″,9″ & 10″ diameters now ALL come with SHARPENED CAVITIES for teeth & cavity {DUAL} cutting.  We pay extra for sharpened cavities so you can have dual cut capability.

We sell 3 blade diameters:  8″, 9″ and 10″…  as a rule of thumb here are the engine sizes recommended for each diameter size to avoid engine bogging down:

—8″… any engine size 19cc on up to 60+cc
—9″… 28cc engine on up to 60+cc
—10″…  35cc engine on up to 60+cc

Note, this is the recommended engine power for blade sizes, you can always decide to run larger blades on smaller engines depending on material being cut.  Example:  Soft grassy brush requires less engine power (torque) than cutting hardwood tree limbs so decide accordingly.   A 10″ blade has lots more centrifugal force generated when spinning at high RPM’s which requires more torque than a 9″ or 8″.


CUTTING TECHNIQUE:   Do not cut thick wood material straight across, instead create a rounded cut line.  So picture rocking your blade back and forth across a limb when cutting it.  Picture creating an upside down “U” inside the cut-line so you are always cutting the crest of the “U”. .  This keeps the amount of teeth in contact with the wood “lower” and therefore less FRICTION is created.   Always pull a blade out of a cut-line in a perpendicular manner; if your blade is in the cut-line in a tree branch and you yank down you can possibly bend & warp the blade disc creating unwanted vibration.
FRICTION & HEATRemember the key to any effective cutting is having the lowest FRICTION possible.  The lower the FRICTION the more quickly your material is cut.  Many customers think their blade is DULL before it is, due to FRICTION lowering effectiveness.  To check sharpness, touch your fingers to the tips of the blade, if still sharp you will feel the sharpness.  So if effectiveness is dropping while still SHARP, then this says the blade is GUNKED-UP.  GUNK is caused by sticky SAP and slows the blades rpm’s turning inside the cutline, similar to GLUE.    Sap builds up on the {blade disc} and on the sides of the teeth and teeth cavities, which rubs inside the cut-line causing FRICTION and therefore HEAT.  HEAT expands metal, so the {blade disc} gets fatter inside the cut-line due to excessive HEAT expansion causing seizing and bogging.   RECOMMENDATION:  during cutting sappy wet sticky wood material always have a can of WD-40 or maybe a SILICONE spray for your blade.  When done cutting, clean your blades in solvent so as to keep them “low friction” shiny SMOOTH.   
GRAVITYAlways use GRAVITY to open the cut-line while cutting.  So as you are cutting the limb, the cut-line opens and does NOT PINCH your blade.  Cut from the top side of an extended limb, or at least from the sides, NOT THE BOTTOM as gravity pushes down on the limb not up.  If a sucker is growing up from a tree root, cut it at a 45 degree angle not straight across to avoid gravity pinching the cut line on your blade.  When cutting try to tug on the limb to “V” open the cut line.

SHARPENING:   It is not recommended to sharpen carbide alter-bevel teeth.  At our prices it is the most cost effective to toss and replace.  Diamond sharpening grinding tools are expensive and can be worn when sharpening carbide, don’t waste your good {diamond tools} or your {valuable TIME} as both cost more money than replacing our blades at these prices.   This is why our blades are much more cost effective than a chain saw or a chain saw blade which both are quick dulling PLAIN STEEL and eat up lots of valuable time constantly sharpening.   ALSO:  sharpening a round blade can throw the balance off and create vibration that you don’t want with one of our blades at 10,000 rpm’s.  We sell our blades cheap enough to toss and replace.





is FREE within the United States and USA Territories.  We ship-out your purchase quickly (typically within 2 days of confirmed payment).   You will receive an email that shows the {Tracking Number} for your order.   Canada & International Customers, please select Canada & International Shipping Options from the “Shipping Pull-down” menu.



(1) Please click a blade {Type} or {Size} link at the top of this HOME PAGE, either on the {side-bar} or by clicking a blade {picture}.  (2) Then from the very next page, please click the specific blade item wanted from the choices and you will see a {SHOPPING CART} box appear next to your specific choice (selection).  (3) Please click the {SHOPPING CART} box to open it and to see our TWO payment options which you then complete to finalize your purchase.



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