Article 1 — How to Cut limbs with a Trimmer



CUTTING TECHNIQUE:   Do not cut thick wood material straight across, instead create a rounded cut line.  So picture rocking your blade back and forth across a limb when cutting it.  Picture creating an upside down “U” inside the cut-line so you are always cutting the crest of the “U”. .  This keeps the amount of teeth in contact with the wood “lower” and therefore less FRICTION is created.   Always pull a blade out of a cut-line in a perpendicular manner; if your blade is in the cut-line in a tree branch and you yank down you can possibly bend & warp the blade disc creating unwanted vibration.

FRICTION & HEAT:  Remember the key to any effective cutting is having the lowest FRICTION possible.  The lower the FRICTION the more quickly your material is cut.  Many customers think their blade is DULL before it is, due to FRICTION lowering effectiveness.  To check sharpness, touch your fingers to the tips of the blade, if still sharp you will feel the sharpness.  So if effectiveness is dropping while still SHARP, then this says the blade is GUNKED-UP.  GUNK is caused by sticky SAP and slows the blades rpm’s turning inside the cutline, similar to GLUE.    Sap builds up on the {blade disc} and on the sides of the teeth and teeth cavities, which rubs inside the cut-line causing FRICTION and therefore HEAT.  HEAT expands metal, so the {blade disc} gets fatter inside the cut-line due to excessive HEAT expansion causing seizing and bogging.   RECOMMENDATION:  during cutting sappy wet sticky wood material always have a can of WD-40 or maybe a SILICONE spray for your blade.  When done cutting, clean your blades in solvent so as to keep them “low friction” shiny SMOOTH.

GRAVITY:  Always use GRAVITY to open the cut-line while cutting.  So as you are cutting the limb, the cut-line opens and does NOT PINCH your blade.  Cut from the top side of an extended limb, or at least from the sides, NOT THE BOTTOM as gravity pushes down on the limb not up.  If a sucker is growing up from a tree root, cut it at a 45 degree angle not straight across to avoid gravity pinching the cut line on your blade.  When cutting try to tug on the limb to “V” open the cut line.

SHARPENING:   It is not recommended to sharpen carbide alter-bevel teeth.  At our prices it is the most cost effective to toss and replace.  Diamond sharpening grinding tools are expensive and can be worn when sharpening carbide, don’t waste your good {diamond tools} or your {valuable TIME} as both cost more money than replacing our blades at these prices.   This is why our blades are much more cost effective than a chain saw or a chain saw blade which both are quick dulling PLAIN STEEL and eat up lots of valuable time constantly sharpening.   ALSO:  sharpening a round blade can throw the balance off and create vibration that you don’t want with one of our blades at 10,000 rpm’s.  We sell our blades cheap enough to toss and replace.