Article 2 — Blade Teeth Types and Blade Design

BLADE TEETH TYPES:

STEEL teeth, CHAINSAW CHAIN TYPE teeth steel, or CARIBDE teeth:   Blades typically come with ordinary plain steel teeth or CARBIDE teeth.   Carbide is well worth considering since a Carbide Tipped (TEETH) blade reputably can last up to [10] times longer than a standard plain steel blade but cost nowhere close to [10] times more money making it an incredible value.  In fact, a Carbide teeth blade normally doesn’t even cost twice as much for up to [10] times the longevity over plain steel.

Maintaining sharpness for continued cutting power is the key to a blades value in relation to cost.  Since time is money, blades that require sharpening cost two to three times their initial cost once your valuable “sharpening time” is factored in.  It should be noted that Carbide is not really easily sharpened but steel can be.  But Carbide does not need sharpening, saving you valuable time.  I used Stihl and Echo 80 teeth {plain steel} blades for years and they dull in approximately 15 minutes of use, or should I say in about 5 minutes if you cut a tree limb instead of brush.  They cost $21 to $23 a piece… YIKES

This is the case with CHAINSAW type blades like the BEAVER CHAIN SAW BLADE that sells for a whopping $49 for their 8″ and $58 for their 9″.   Chain saw blades like the Beaver are too wide and seize horribly as well, and do not have our blade’s versatility, as they are basically tailored for tree limb cutting only.   A wider blade like the fat BEAVER BLADE cuts a wider swath cut that adds horrible FRICTION (unless OIL is applied).  Their design looks way better than their function since they have [Plain Steel] chain saw teeth that are less efficient and they only have approx 20 to 30 teeth if that.  Even with 30 “plain steel” chain saw teeth, the BEAVER has a low aggregate cutting surface (all cutting spread over only 30 teeth) as compared to our 80, 100, 120 teeth, all CARBIDE Multi-use blades.   If you have a regular chainsaw like I do, you know how they dull up quickly and out comes the sharpening file, and since the chain is fat it needs to be oiled a lot of the time (hassle time and oil cost); so what makes a BEAVER CHAINSAW brush blade any different from a chain saw (nothing)?  The teeth on a chainsaw chain are on top of the chain, but the sides of [riveted] chainsaw chain invariably come in contact inside the [cut swath] adding friction as well.  Additionally, Chainsaw chains stretch over time due to being multiple links in a chain with many moving parts, and therefore lose efficiency as a result.   Our CARBIDE BLADES have 3.5 to 4 times the aggregate cutting surface [due to more teeth actually cutting] for roughly 1/4 the cost of a BEAVER since our blades cost approx. $15 a piece.   Simply try our blades and measure “cutting time per dollar spent” and the time SAVED not having to change blade types since our MULTI-USE blades do it all: hedge like butter, prune, tree limb cut up to 8″ thick, & brush cut, instead of ONLY tree limb cutting like the BEAVER blade.  Test and decide for yourself whether it makes more dollar and cents (sense) to throw our blades away after “ALL” they do and simply replace them for a low cost… Compare our Carbide Blades against a Beaver for our (1) low cost, (2) no sharpening, and (3) maximum versatility; versus buying the high priced, low number of cutting teeth that need constant sharpening, BEAVER BLADE.  We already know the answer.   Take the test and see for yourself.  NOTE about FRICTION:    Any blade including ours can sometimes benefit from spraying with some silicone or WD-40 (or equivalent) especially when the wood being cut is real sticky or full of sap.  Always cut a branch so the cut opens with gravity or any blade will be pinched.

BLADE DESIGN:

Standard Weed Whacker blades come in various styles:

1. THREE-PRONG or 4-prong or 5-prong for simple soft green weed cutting. Each large prong has a “plain steel” cutting edge rather than actual teeth. The deeper inner most part of each prong does not often get the same cutting time as the outer edge part of each prong so dulling occurs in an imbalanced manner. This type of blade will not be suitable for pruning trees or hedging, nor for cutting heavy duty wood-stock type weeds, brush, or brambles. This type of blade is the cheapest and dulls the quickest since it spreads its cutting surface over only three to five cutting edges and only comes in basic steel, not carbide.  This style tears and rips more than cuts, which means more tiring effort to complete the job.

2. Twenty (20) to Forty (40) TEETH Blades: This is the next step up in Garden Trimmer applications over the 3, 4 or 5 prong type blade mentioned above. Obviously 40 teeth offers substantially more aggregate cutting surface than any prong type. This type of blade is very specialized and superior for cutting Brush & most Brambles but they are not particularly suitable for Pruning, Hedging, or cutting thick tree limbs. It should be added that these type blades must be sharp, otherwise the teeth tend to grab and tug and rip wood stock weeds when dull.  This type blade offers maximum efficacy for BRUSH, especially when not spinning the blade at 10,000 RPM’s.  Altering speeds with your Trimmer will allow brush to sink into larger teeth cavities for maximum efficiency.  Check out our Brush Only style blades.

3. Eighty (80)  (100) & (120) TEETH Blade: This style Blade offers the most versatility in Weed Whacker – String Trimmer Blade choices.  It should be clear now that the more teeth you have cutting, the more aggregate cutting surface area you are applying to the job at hand. In addition, more teeth typically cost more to manufacture.   The 80 plus teeth blade offers the most versatility, stays sharper longer and is the best value for the buck and excels at every application but BRUSH only.   With lots of teeth you create less friction and you maximize the blade with higher RPM’s, since teeth do the cutting before debris can ever sink into teeth cavities.

The one main consideration is that the typical 80 tooth blade comes in 8 inch diameter that fits with the safety blade guard ON your Weed Whacker – String Trimmer, and the 100 tooth type blade is normally 9 inches in diameter and therefore May or May Not allow your blade guard to fit (depending on size of your blade guard).    Additionally, we recommend that the maximum size diameter blade be limited to the power of your String Trimmer motor in CC’s.   Rule of thumb is use 8″ diameter blades with engines up to 30 CC’s, use 8 or 9 inch diameter blades for Trimmer engines powered from 30 to 36 CC’s and  from 37 to 45 CC’s use 8, 9, or 10 inch blades.   Larger blades will bog down smaller motors.

Renegade Blades

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